Support Groups for Toyotaholics
Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

Support Main     Profile     Register    Private Messages     Active Topics (428)     Unanswered Topics     Active Users (8)     Calendar     Members     Search Forum     FAQ     FANATIC ADDICT     RigRater     Toyotaholic Rides     SHOP     Chat

 All Forums
 Toy Tech
 General 4x4 Tech
 A340 Transmission issues and FAQs

Note: You must be registered in order to post a reply.
To register, click here. Registration is FREE!

Screensize:
UserName:
Password:
Format Mode:
Format: BoldItalicizedUnderlineStrikethrough Align LeftCenteredAlign Right Horizontal Rule Insert HyperlinkInsert EmailInsert Image Insert CodeInsert QuoteInsert List
   
Message:

* HTML is OFF
* Forum Code is ON
Smilies
Smile [:)] Big Smile [:D] Cool [8D] Blush [:I]
Tongue [:P] Evil [):] Wink [;)] Clown [:o)]
Black Eye [B)] Eight Ball [8] Frown [:(] Shy [8)]
Shocked [:0] Angry [:(!] Dead [xx(] Sleepy [|)]
Kisses [:X] Approve [^] Disapprove [V] Question [?]

   Insert an Image File
Check here to include your profile signature.
Check here to subscribe to this topic.
    

T O P I C    R E V I E W
Scotty Posted - 09/11/2006 : 3:52:11 PM
Since I bought my 88' 4runner a few weeks ago, I have been having some periodic shifting problems with it. Its been getting worse as of late though, so I started looking for answers on the web. Anyway, take a look at what I have been able to find out and diagnose with the help of several sites and forums.
----------

My problems started about 3 weeks ago. One day on the way home from work, I pulled up to a stop light a few blocks from my house. When the light turned green, I hit the pedal and found that my automatic tranmission was stuck in 3rd gear. I immediately turned into the closet parking lot fearing the worst. To boot, my OD light was blinking at me. Quickly, I shifted it into park. Then went ahead and tried it again and it shifted normally. Well, each of the next two days it happened in the exact same spot, but not any other time. But, since then it is now becoming more apparent. So, I immediately decided that I needed to find out what was going on.

After searching online for pretty much a full day this is what I have come up with. The A340 uses three solenoids that help control the shift points on the transmission. These solenoids can go bad over time causing the tranny to shift erratically, or in my case not at all. Other areas of concern include the Vehicle Speed Sensor(there actually two of these), and the Throttle Position Sensor. During my research I came across several websites that provide a wealth of knowledge that is needed when trying to diagnose these problems.

By far, the most helpful is the following website that will allow you to open certain sections of the FSM regarding these transmissions.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/autotrans.html

Also keep in mind that the A340 transmission is basically the same the AW4 that is found in Jeep Cherokees, so one would think that these FSM pages would also work for those people having issues with their AW4s.

AFAIK, the following transmission codes represent what tranny you have.

*A340F are found in 4wd 4runners and trucks that have the 2.4L 22RE 4cyl motors.
*A340H are found in 4wd 4runners and trucks that have the 3.0L 3VZ-E
V6 motors.
*A340E are found in 2wd 4runners and trucks that have the 3.0L 3VZ-E V6 motors.

All of these(except the 2wd versions) have an integrated chain driven transfer case that gives a 2.56:1 gear reduction in 4lo.

For Basic Troubleshooting of these transmissions go here:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/autotrans/43basictro.pdf

And for General troubleshooting of these transmissions go here:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/autotrans/44generalt.pdf br /

Directions for pulling codes for the "Overdrive" light on the center console:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/autotrans/45diagnosi.pdf

Translating the Codes:
Code 42: Defective No.1 vehicle speed sensor(in combination meter) - severed wire harness or short circuit
Code 61: Defective No.2 vehicle speed sensor(in ATM) - severed wire harness or short circuit
Code 62: Severed No.1 solenoid or short circuit - severed wire harness or short circuit
Code 63: Severed No.2 solenoid or short circuit - severed wire harness or short circuit
Code 64: Severed lock-up solenoid or short circuit - severed wire harness or short circuit

In order to reset the Diagnostic trouble code, remove the MFI fuse located on the passenger side inner fender:



A/T Shift Schedule


During my search, I was also able to locate a couple of sources for much cheaper replacement Solenoids for the A340. Considering that Toyota charges upwards of $150/ea for these, this is a bargain. You want kit #97420K below:

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=A340solenoid br /

Or, you can contact:
Axiom Automotive Technologies
1360 Ingleside Rd.
Norfolk, VA 23502
800-622-6997
(kit#97420K)

I believe these solenoids to be my major malfunction in my own A340 transmission and will be ordering a kit myself to install in my tranny. Also keep in mind that this install can be done while the tranny is still in the vehicle. It is a good idea to replace the fluid and filter at the same time.

Good luck with your diagnosis!



Dual Transfer case options for the A340.

There is really only one option for getting a dual case setup behind the A340 tranmission to date.

Inchworm makes the only adapter available for the A340.

Taken from Inchworm's site:
"It allows the use of Inchworm Double Transfer Case Adapters and Geared Cases behind factory automatic transmissions. Clockability allows stock rotation or up 10 degrees for added ground clearance. This adapter requires the use of a 23 spline input shaft.

This adapter does require a complete tear down of the factory automatic transfer case as well as some small part changing inside the transmission. Installation is available."


Link to their site
http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=86

You will also need their 23 spline input shaft(which is a great upgrade anyway).
http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=33

Then from there you can take your pick of using which gearing with the dual cases you would like.


Transfer Case options for the A340

While Toyota Tcase options are limited behind the A340, there is one more option that may appeal to you.

Jeep AW4s are basically the same at the A340, but with one major difference. They DO NOT have an integrated transfer case like the A340 does. The AW4 also has the removable bellhousing, so you can bolt a Toyota bellhousing to the AW4 for use in a Toyota chassis. So, that means that if you used the Jeep AW4 in a toyota, you have the option of going with other transfer cases. Two of which are the Dana 300, and the Atlas II transfer cases. Both of these cases offer a twin stick option to allow yourself the ability to disengage the front and rear axles for use on the trail. The Dana 300 offers a 2.62:1 gearing reduction in stock form, or the ability to get a 4:1 gearing option with either TeraLow gears from Teraflex or LowMax gears from Novak Adapters. The Atlas II offers the option of 3.0:1, 3.8:1, 4.3:1, or 5:1 sets.

The Dana 300 option would require a 5/8" spacer that you can buy from Novak Adapters. This adapter also allows you to clock the Dana 300 almost flat for more ground clearance. It also gives you the option of not needing to pull the rear driveshaft when flat towing, because the output bearing would now be riding in the gear oil in the Tcase.
Link to adapter with Novak:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_153_aw4.htm

AFAIK, there is no adapter required when using the Atlas transfer case with the Jeep AW4.




25   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
weaselman Posted - 03/31/2010 : 12:37:44 PM
so i just acquired my first turbo automatic 4runner. its an 87.

i fixed the burned out overdrive bulb.

now when im just crusing around, it blinks. what does this mean?

if i turn overdirve off. the light will come on and stay on. but as soon as i turn overdrive on. the light goes out and starts to blink every so often.. there is no pattern. just random blinks.
Scotty Posted - 02/13/2010 : 2:08:42 PM
Kill switch is the best mod you can do.
nhughes Posted - 02/11/2010 : 10:08:51 PM
Deuce - It may sound dumb, but check your TPS, and TPS wires! here's why I say this...
UPDATE: I've figured out my shifting issue. The ECT IS reliant on the ECU for the TPS signal, I now have the original ECU "piggybacked" with my SDS. As soon as I re-installed the ECU and re-ran the TPS wires back to the ECU, it didn't shift prematurely, and it kicks down when I get on the gas. My only concern is sometimes, depending upon TP, it shifts and drops rpm's for a second, and then jumps back up, making for a "twitchy" shift. Some have recommended I drop the pan and clean up the solenoids... we'll see... - In other news, My truck was stolen on the 11th, found on the 26th, and It had been half-ass stripped. Check this out... They took my cat, and the rest of the exhaust from there back, (cause i guarantee it was a bitch), my stereo, amp, sds programmer, Optima Red Top, My BOV complete with that section of intake, and all my personal items inside - Ipod, Streamlight Stinger, Camera (with ex girlfriend nudie pics LOL), tools (great for helping break into and steal more cars), GPS, knives, fire extinguisher, etc, they even got my receipt for my long block cause they used my back-pack to carry stuff and it was in there with other receipts, even felt the need to take a wooden tobacco pipe! I NOW DESPISE THIEVES! But here's the funny part, they didn't take the charger for the Streamlight, and of course the programmer is useless unless you have the SDS ECU, and why wouldn't a theif have pulled for screws to take an MSD DIS-2, that'd practically fit in their back pocket? Of course I am glad they didn't but come on! They must have spent 30 min. on that exhaust! And the stereo was a "rampage". I'm guessing it was 10 years old. My insurance wanted to "total" my truck. Almost no damage was done to the body or interior. They said, "It's worth $2800".(anyone see the 87 4runner go for $15,000 on ebay this last week? it was a beauty) I wouldn't let them leave me with a salvage title, so I showed them over 7k in receipts, and managed to fight, and "win", almost $1800, before my $500 deductible. So, I barely got enough to replace the parts, and do all the labor myself. Now, it's alarm time. maybe some toxic gas to fill the cab if it's started without my handprint or something. Ha Ha - Removable steering wheel perhaps? - Any tips besides the obvious kill switch ideas?
P4AT Posted - 02/11/2010 : 6:52:49 PM
quote:
Originally posted by bierend


So the tranny company gives a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty, but since it's been 19 months they were in no hurry to do any warranty work. The guy suggested an additive (Lube Gard) and checking the Throttle Cable and the Output Speed Sensor.

Does any of that sound right?


I sell Lubegard and Smart Blend , while both are very good products , they will not fix the issue you have described. If your fluid is burnt, you have more issues then just a fast fix. Assuming you want to keep the vehicle, the only way you’re going to fix the issue is for the unit to come out and be re-built. I know that’s not what you want to hear, but it is the reality of it.
Is there any metal in the pan?
P4AT Posted - 02/11/2010 : 6:45:50 PM
Hi guys,
I saw this website as I was searching for my competition, it brought me to this forum. If you need some help on the Transmission side I might be able to help you out. Here is a link to my website and I have done some research on the A340 unit. If helps great ...if not feel free to use it as a reference.

Cheers.

http://www.parts4transmissions.com/downloads/How_to_Identify_the_A340_A341_A343_OD_Planetary_Assemblies.pdf
duece Posted - 08/25/2009 : 06:02:52 AM
I bought the selonoid kit 2 weeks ago and installed it, and everything seems to be normal now. However, I hooked to a trailer on Sat. to haul a mower and I kicked in the ECT button, as well as turning od off (the trailer is quite heavy btw) and it had shifting problems again??? I stopped, turned the truck off, and started it again, and all was peachy?! Got home, unloaded trailer and mower, and went back out with ECT off and OD on, and had no problems. What else do I need to replace?

Duece
Scotty Posted - 08/18/2009 : 7:58:58 PM
If you are smelling burnt fluid, then ita an internal issue, not electrical.
bierend Posted - 08/18/2009 : 7:43:22 PM
This thread has been very helpful. I'm trying to help my son with an 89 Extra Cab he inherited from his Grandad. The truck has 88K on it, but grandma put a rebuilt tranny in it for some reason. 1600 miles later the thing is having trouble staying engaged after running on the freeway, and the ATF is torched and smells horrid.

So the tranny company gives a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty, but since it's been 19 months they were in no hurry to do any warranty work. The guy suggested an additive (Lube Gard) and checking the Throttle Cable and the Output Speed Sensor.

Does any of that sound right?
bierend Posted - 08/18/2009 : 7:42:31 PM
This thread has been very helpful. I'm trying to help my son with an 89 Extra Cab he inherited from his Grandad. The truck has 88K on it, but grandma put a rebuilt tranny in it for some reason. 1600 miles later the thing is having trouble staying engaged after running on the freeway, and the ATF is torched and smells horrid.

So the tranny company gives a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty, but since it's been 19 months they were in no hurry to do any warranty work. The guy suggested an additive (Lube Gard) and checking the Throttle Cable and the Output Speed Sensor.

Does any of that sound right?
bierend Posted - 08/18/2009 : 7:41:41 PM
This thread has been very helpful. I'm trying to help my son with an 89 Extra Cab he inherited from his Grandad. The truck has 88K on it, but grandma put a rebuilt tranny in it for some reason. 1600 miles later the thing is having trouble staying engaged after running on the freeway, and the ATF is torched and smells horrid.

So the tranny company gives a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty, but since it's been 19 months they were in no hurry to do any warranty work. The guy suggested an additive (Lube Gard) and checking the Throttle Cable and the Output Speed Sensor.

Does any of that sound right?
nhughes Posted - 07/23/2009 : 7:38:43 PM
Update!!! I'm An Idiot!!! My vin tag Tells me that it's an A340H. Why I hadn't realized that while adjusting my "kickdown"/"trans. throttle position cable", is beyond me. - Still Shifting Manually...
Scotty Posted - 07/17/2009 : 06:30:16 AM
quote:
Originally posted by nhughes

Is the ect reliant on the ecu in the 86 a340f for ANY data what-so-ever? I am no longer running the factory ECU in my truck, but it does still have the AT/ect. I'm hesitant to believe it to be the solenoid/s, based of course upon ignorance, and the underlying fact I'd rather spend money on A/C here in PHX, AZ.



AFAIK, yes and no. It will reply on certain things like a temp sensor to let the tranny know when to shift into OD. When the tranny is too cold, the computer will tell it not to shift into OD until it reaches a certain temp. However, my guess is that being in Phoenix it would rarely ever get cold enough to allow that to happen.
nhughes Posted - 07/16/2009 : 7:18:46 PM
Is the ect reliant on the ecu in the 86 a340f for ANY data what-so-ever? I am no longer running the factory ECU in my truck, but it does still have the AT/ect. I'm hesitant to believe it to be the solenoid/s, based of course upon ignorance, and the underlying fact I'd rather spend money on A/C here in PHX, AZ.
chriskatana Posted - 07/07/2009 : 4:44:35 PM
I'm having an issue shifting out of first.. it shifts very late no matter how hard i press the gas. usuaually around 3500 rpm and when it does shift, it takes a second, sags, then bumps into gear.
I disconnected the solenoids and the problem stayed. I did the Stall test using the dash tach and it revs to 2200 in both drive and reverse. so that's indicating the torque converter. I just here looking to verify that or get some advice on what else to check. I don't have a gauge to do the line pressure test.

After reconnecting the solenoids i took it back out and trie manually shifting through the gears.
Shifting from d1 to d2 i find that 2nd gear doesn't function at all, it just slips, shifting to D the trans shifts into 3rd then to OD as it should.


Oh yeah, I checked the fluid, it's full and clean.

Thanks,
Chris
nhughes Posted - 06/29/2009 : 10:06:37 PM
Is it at all possible that @ 291,000 miles the "Shift Plug" is gunked up and sticking? - I am curious about "sea foam" brand "Trans Tune" like many others, so I've noticed...
nhughes Posted - 06/29/2009 : 9:49:11 PM
well, wouldn't I have other shifting issues with down shifting while coasting or something like that?
here's one potentially priceless bit of info for anyone who may be interested. -
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/autotrans/44generalt.pdf
ALSO -
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT23.pdf
Scotty Posted - 06/29/2009 : 3:13:52 PM
Yes. Its safe insurance. I'll bet two of the three are bad or going bad. And, its basically the same cost to buy two separately as it is all three in a kit.
nhughes Posted - 06/28/2009 : 10:36:00 PM
all 3 of them?
Scotty Posted - 06/27/2009 : 6:47:11 PM
quote:
Originally posted by nhughes

Wow! Someone with the same problem I am having! I just wondered if you ever figured out the cause of you premature shifting and no "kick-down". I just got mine on the road after buying it Engine-less and the trans is in 3rd by 15-20 miles per hour and it will never downshift from o/d-4, 4-3, 3-2 or 2-L when I "mash the gas". Only way to drop gears to make any power at speed requires turning o/d off on the highway at 55+.
I hope you found the problem, cause I know it's annoying coming out of a corner at 20 mph in 3rd gear, plus I could use an experienced opinion.



Its the shift solenoids. Its an easy fix, but does require dropping the pan.
nhughes Posted - 06/27/2009 : 5:25:53 PM
Wow! Someone with the same problem I am having! I just wondered if you ever figured out the cause of you premature shifting and no "kick-down". I just got mine on the road after buying it Engine-less and the trans is in 3rd by 15-20 miles per hour and it will never downshift from o/d-4, 4-3, 3-2 or 2-L when I "mash the gas". Only way to drop gears to make any power at speed requires turning o/d off on the highway at 55+.
I hope you found the problem, cause I know it's annoying coming out of a corner at 20 mph in 3rd gear, plus I could use an experienced opinion.
bgoforth Posted - 02/19/2008 : 11:22:26 AM
Hello guys,

I have an '85 4Runner 22 REC with 300K+ miles on it and the tranny A340 has recently started acting up. I had to have a torque converter a while back but now it shifts really fast through the gears and does not downshift when you mash the gas. I have looked at the great info on troubleshooting but I can't seem to locate the diagnostic connector. I assume it is an A340-F since it is a 22-R but there is no neutral on the T-case and there is a small drain pan with drain plug on the T-case. The diagrams show it is over by the fusebox under the hood but I cannot see it there, Help?

Thanks!
Scotty Posted - 02/09/2008 : 7:59:57 PM
quote:
Originally posted by bubbykinz

Fluid is good in neutral ... no codes ... blinks steady every second when I test.



Sounds like a bad tranny to tell you the truth. It may just need a rebuild or a new one. You can usually get them really cheap online and used.
bubbykinz Posted - 02/07/2008 : 7:16:26 PM
Fluid is good in neutral ... no codes ... blinks steady every second when I test.
Scotty Posted - 02/07/2008 : 6:25:18 PM
quote:
Originally posted by bubbykinz

Yes, it was doing that before the change ... I'm checking the fluid in park after warm up ... I'll try neutral.



Nuetral is how you do it, but if its slipping that badly, I would guess a severe problem. Is the OD light blinking a code at all?
bubbykinz Posted - 02/06/2008 : 3:48:16 PM
Yes, it was doing that before the change ... I'm checking the fluid in park after warm up ... I'll try neutral.

Support Groups for Toyotaholics © 2003 Toyotaholics Anonymous Go To Top Of Page
Page generated in 0.3 seconds. Snitz Forums 2000